Tag Archives: British Virgin Islands

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS – SPANISH TOWN, VIRGIN GORDA, SIX MONTHS AFTER HURRICANE IRMA – by Theresa

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Our family has been traveling to the British Virgin Islands (BVIs) for many years, beginning with bareboat charters in 2011 and 2013. In fact, it was during these bareboat charters that we first began discussing the possibility of cruising the Caribbean in our own boat. Making that dream a reality and returning to the BVIs in our own boat was one of the countless surreal moments that we have  encountered during our Caribbean cruising journey [See British Virgin Islands (2015)].

In the immediate aftermath of Hurricane Irma, it was with a heavy heart that we viewed the before and after photos of the BVIs. [See British Virgin Islands – Before & After Hurricane Irma (2017)]. Like everyone else, we were shocked by the images of destruction that made their way into the news.  We tracked the Islands’ recovery efforts closely, knowing that we would be stopping there on our journey north. Six months after Irma, we returned to the British Virgin Islands, unsure of what we would find.

VIRGIN GORDA – SPANISH TOWN

From St. Martin, we set a  north westwardly course, across the 80 mile Anegada passage, towards the BVIs.  During our  previous channel crossings we routinely encountered dozens of other vessels. On our most recent crossing, we passed only one other vessel, a magnificent 100 foot sailing yacht. After seeing Marigot Bay in St. Martin nearly deserted, we were not sure what to expect as we sailed past Necker Island, unofficially marking our entrance into the waters of the BVIs.

On previous westbound visits to the BVIs we had cleared in at the closest point of entry, Gun Creek, on the east end of Virgin Gorda, in North Gorda Sound.

Map_BVI

Map_BVI

Since North Gorda Sound was hit hard by Hurricane Irma, the Gun Creek Customs and Immigration was no longer a clearing-in option. Instead, we headed down to the next closest clear-in office located in Spanish Town, on the north shore of Virgin Gorda, almost to the west end of island.  We had been there on previous visits to the BVIs so we were familiar with the port. We called ahead to confirm slip availability and to see what marine services were available. When we arrived, the marina was barely recognizable.

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Tying up to the dock was a challenge because cleats were either missing or broken in half. Tying off to a half cleat required quick knot tying adjustments. The marina’s power distribution grid and associated dockside power pedestals had been totally destroyed. The only potable water available to boats in the marina is via a single fresh water spigot. Again, the dockside water distribution lines have been totally destroyed. The marina did have a functioning diesel fuel pump so refueling at the VGYH remains an option.

Once Pilots’ Discretion was secure in her slip, we set out to clear immigration and customs. Irma’s destruction was readily apparent. We saw cleats with lines still tied to them, but with no boats attached to the snapped lines, a sign of just how strong the force on the line and it’s now missing boat  was.

Cleat with snapped line still attached, Tortola (March 2018)

Cleat with snapped line still attached, Tortola (March 2018)

All that remained at the end of the dock, where the marina restaurant once stood, was a flat wooden platform.

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor old dockside restaurant, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor old dockside restaurant, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, old dockside restaurant, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, old dockside restaurant, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

The small shopping center, that use to house the dive and gift shops, was all boarded up and missing its walls and roof.

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor old shopping center, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor old shopping center, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, old shopping center (missing roof, walls & windows), Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, old shopping center (missing roof, walls & windows), Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

The grocery store was likewise destroyed.

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, old grocery store (missing roof, walls & windows), Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, old grocery store (missing roof, walls & windows), Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, old grocery store (missing roof, walls & windows), Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, old grocery store (missing roof, walls & windows), Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Immigration & Customs was housed in a building a short walk  through what used  to be a grass field. That field has since been converted into a boat grave yard for the multitude of damaged and salvaged vessels.

Boat grave yard in the field next to Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Boat grave yard in the field next to Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Boat grave yard in the field next to Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Boat grave yard in the field next to Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Boat grave yard in the field next to Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Boat grave yard in the field next to Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

We were repeatedly told that damaged buildings and boats remain untouched six months after the hurricane because of pending, unresolved insurance claims.

Despite all of the damage, everyone we encountered was warm, friendly and inviting. Everyone thanked us for coming. Signs of recovery could be seen in the numerous new charter boats pulling into the marina.

Marine Max charter arriving in Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Marine Max charter arriving in Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Moorings charters arriving in Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Moorings charters arriving in Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (March 2018)

Taxis were lined up in the parking lot waiting to take passengers to the popular tourist spot nearby, The Baths. Many of the shops and restaurants that had previously been a part of the marina grounds have relocated a few blocks away.

In sum, Spanish Town remains a viable choice to clear customs and immigration and to pick up a taxi to the “The Baths” national park or nearby shops or restaurants. There is no way to stop at the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor without being confronted with the dramatic destruction left in the wake of last hurricane season. We spent one night in Spanish Town before moving on to Nanny Cay Marina, in Tortola. Nanny Cay served as the headquarters for the post-hurricane Irma relief efforts mounted by the British Royal Marines. We had received reports that Nanny Cay had just installed a large section of new floating docks and that they had water, electricity and fuel available. As a result, we were comfortable that we would be able to secure adequate services for our floating home. More on Nanny Cay in our next post.

HURRICANE MARIA (SEPTEMBER 2017) – by Theresa

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Hurricane season has arrived in full force. As cruisers, we spend an inordinate amount of time monitoring weather systems. The latest shows Hurricane Maria intensified into a catastrophic Category 5 storm Monday, with maximum sustained winds of 160 mph (260 kph), as it surged toward islands in the eastern Caribbean.

Projected track for Hurricane Maria, September 18, 2017

Projected track for Hurricane Maria, September 18, 2017

Hurricane warnings have been posted for the U.S. and British Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico, Guadeloupe, Dominica, St. Kitts, Nevis and Montserrat.

A tropical storm warning was issued for Antigua and Barbuda, Saba, St. Eustatius, St. Maarten, St. Lucia (where Pilots’ Discretion is currently located), Martinique and Anguilla. Many of these islands are still recovering from direct hits from hurricane Irma. (See http://www.msn.com/en-us/weather/topstories/cat-5-hurricane-maria-threatens-storm-battered-caribbean/ar-AAs6sKy?ocid=spartandhp.) We are continuing to keep all those affected in our thoughts and prayers. We will post additional updates after this storm passes.

Hurricane Irma (photo from Marine Weather Center's post)

HURRICANE IRMA – 2017 – by Theresa

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First, thank you, to everyone, for reaching out to see how Pilots’ Discretion, and her crew, fared as Hurricane Irma tracked through the Caribbean. In preparation for the storm and in accordance with our hurricane plan, we spider tied Pilots’ Discretion, with doubled lines, in a double slip, on a floating dock, alone with no other boats, in St. Lucia. Irma was set to track north of St. Lucia, however, to be on the safe side, we left the boat in St. Lucia and flew to Florida to stay out of harms way!

As predicted, Hurricane Irma passed north of St. Lucia. We were incredibly grateful to learn that our pre-hurricane preparations were sufficient, and that St. Lucia was spared from the ferocity of the storm. The island received some rain and wind from the outer bands of the storm, but on the whole, the island and our boat, weathered the storm and are fine.

Having flown to Florida, we then holed up with family in Spring Hill, just north of Tampa, on the west coast of Florida. Having just gone through the hurricane preparations drill in St. Lucia our crew was ready and able to  assist with preparations for the “high impact” potential hit headed for our relatives in Spring Hill.

We listened to reports, and observed, painfully, the pictures of the devastation from the direct hits on Barbuda, St. Barthélemy (St. Bart), St. Maarten/St. Martin, Anguilla, Antigua, the British Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico. We have travelled to all of these islands in previous cruising seasons, and our thoughts and prayers go out to all those affected by the storm.

Paraquita Bay, British Virgin Islands (Before and After)

Paraquita Bay, BVI (Before)
Paraquita Bay, BVI (After)

Nanny Cay Marina, British Virgin Islands, post hurricane Irma, 2017

BVI, Nanny Cay Marina Boat Yard, Post Hurricane Irma (2017)
BVI, Nanny Cay Marina Boat Yard, Post Hurricane Irma (2017)
BVI, Nanny Cay Marina Boat Yard, Post Hurricane Irma (2017)
BVI, Nanny Cay Marina Boat Yard, Post Hurricane Irma (2017)
BVI, Nanny Cay Marina Boat Yard, Post Hurricane Irma (2017)
BVI, Nanny Cay Marina, Post Hurricane Irma (2017)

Isleta Marina, Fajardo, Puerto Rico, post hurricane Irma, Sept. 2017

1 Isleta Marina, Puerto Rico
2 Isleta Marina, Puerto Rico
3 Isleta Marina, Fajardo, Puerto Rico (2017)
4 Isleta Marina, Fajardo, Puerto Rico
5 Isleta Marina, Fajardo, Puerto Rico (2017)
6 Isleta Marina, Fajardo, Puerto Rico (2017)

Foxy’s before (2016) and after (2017)

Foxy’s, Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVI
Foxy’s, Jost Van Dyke, Post Hurricane Irma (2017)
Forecasted Track for Hurricane Irma, Sept. 7, 2017

Forecasted Track for Hurricane Irma originally had her skirting up the east coast of Florida, Sept. 7, 2017

In Florida, the original forecasts had the storm tracking up the east coast. Slowly, the storm edged west with the later predictions indicating she would run up the middle of the Florida peninsula. Finally, within the last day prior to Florida landfall, the forecast consensus had Irma tracking up the west coast of Florida. We weathered the storm just north of Tampa. The eye passed just to our east during the middle of the night. We were extremely fortunate that a slight variation in the actual track of the storm placed us on the weak side of the circulation at the same time the storm was beginning to fall apart. We had a few hours of heavy rains accompanied by gusty winds mostly in the 40 knot range. Like most, we lost power and had a few downed trees to deal with but for the most part we came through the storm wiser for the experience but without taking any direct hits. We are all very aware of the potential devastation that just barely sidestepped us.

Our thoughts and prayers continue to go out to all those affected by the storm. Florida, the islands, and those living and cruising in Florida and the Caribbean islands, are a resilient bunch. Communities have already banded together to address immediate needs and start the lengthy rebuilding process. Click here for additional photos, and to see several prominent business owners (including the infamous Soggy Dollar, Foxy’s, Corsairs, Willie T’s) who have already vowed to rebuild!

Patton, Loblolly Beach, Anegada, BVI

Happy 15th Birthday Patton! – by Randy

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imageYesterday was a pretty important day aboard the Pilots’ Discretion. Patton, our intrepid, world traveling Cocker Spaniel turned fifteen (15) years old. Way back when we initially left the comfort zone of our home marina in Tarpon Springs, Florida (2 and 1/2 years ago) we had some concerns with how well our then 12 year old buddy would adapt to a life at sea. Our concerns were completely unfounded. Patton is the first one up every morning and the last one to turn in each night after surveying the boat to assure himself that the entire crew is accounted for.Patton Kindle

Patton crew

Patton crew

He loves excursions in the dinghy and he has his favorite spot picked out under the Captain’s helm chair for long passages.

Patton driving the dinghy in the BVIs

Patton driving the dinghy in the BVIs

Randy & Patton in front of Tthe Indians, B.V.I.

Randy & Patton in front of the Indians, B.V.I.

The story would not be complete without acknowledging there have been some concessions made due to the decision to cruise with Patton. We do not patronize places along the way that are not dog friendly. We have on rare occasions had more difficulty clearing immigration as a result of declaring Patton as part of our crew but all in all, he has been a very positive addition to our crew and we would not consider having it any other way.

Cable Car, Loma Isabel de Torres, Dominican Reupblic

Cable Car, Loma Isabel de Torres, Dominican Republic

 

For those of you following our blog who are not dog people, I am sure you just scratch your head when you see me acting like a very proud papa when talking about Patton. To the dog people following us, I know that I need to say no more.

Happy birthday Patton, the crew of the Pilots’ Discretion loves you❤️

Patton enjoying the sunset from The Bight, Norman Island, B.V.I.

Patton enjoying the sunset from The Bight, Norman Island, B.V.I.

 

Ronan at the helm, BVIs

Developing the Boys’ Mariner Skills: Part 2 – by Theresa

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Last year while cruising around the British Virgin Islands (BVIs), we spent a significant amount of time developing and honing the boys’ maritime skills. (April 17, 2015 post, “Developing the Boys’ Mariner Skills”.)  The BVIs is an excellent cruising location to advance one’s mariner skills as all but one of the islands are within eyesight of one another. It was here that Ryan and Ronan mastered picking up mooring balls, keeping their dock lines neat and how to safely maneuver the 25 hp dinghy.

Ryan docking the dinghy
Cool knots
Flemish

Wow, what a difference a year makes! With each passing day, the boys have been devouring their marine environment, learning about all of the various systems on board. While they are still adept at previously learned skills, they are now more interested in how to run “the big boat.”

Ronan at the helm, BVIs
Ryan & Patton at the helm

They are planning routes and plotting courses between the islands. They navigate the vector (digitally created layered charts) and raster (scanned paper charts) charts with ease and are more familiar with the Rules of Navigation and crossings than some of the adult boaters that we have encountered.

Ronan reviewing the charts, BVIs
Ryan underway
Ryan & Randy changing the oil in the generator

Ryan & Randy changing the oil in the generator

When not running the boat, they are often tinkering about in the engine room helping Randy with some boat project or another. After taking on fuel they are responsible for managing and running the fuel polishing system. They also help with basic maintenance projects such as changing the generator oil and filter, changing the water maker filters, and washing down the boat after a day at sea.

As our world revolves around the weather, monitoring sea and wind conditions has become routine for us all. While the Caribbean is mostly sunny, every good mariner has foul weather gear close at hand.

Foul weather gear on
Squall over Sir Francis Drake Channel
Squall over Sir Francis Drake Channel

On sunnier days, the boys get a charge watching our battery voltage increase from our solar panels. They understand how the solar power is harnessed and distributed throughout the boat. They also now wholly understand the mechanics of the patent pending solar powered picnic table catamaran in Cane Garden Bay, Tortola.

Solar powered picnic table catamaran
Solar panels

Ryan and Ronan routinely monitor the VHF radio and listen to transmissions between the Coast Guard and vessels in distress. They know that having capable crew on deck is important to running the boat safely and efficiently. Having witnessed other vessels in distress only heightens their safety awareness. Nobody ever wants to return to the dock like the boat we saw being towed in on air bags in Nanny Cay!

This is not how any boater wants to return to the dock

This is not how any boater wants to return to the dock

As the saying goes, “all work and no  play makes Jack a dull boy.” Hence, as we have been cruising around the BVIs, honing the boys’ mariner skills, the boys have also been honing their having fun skills. They have reconnected with friends met during our previous stay in the BVIs, as well as having made some new ones.

R&R, Nanny Cay Marina, Tortola, British Virgin Islands

R&R, Nanny Cay Marina, Tortola, British Virgin Islands (2016)

Soccer at Nanny Cay, Tortola, BVI

Soccer at Nanny Cay, Tortola, BVI (2016)

Sidney’s Peace & Love, Jost Van Dyke, (2016)

Ryan Village Cay, Tortola, BVI

Ryan, Village Cay, Tortola, BVI (2016)

Ronan, Village Cay, Tortola, BVI

Ronan, Village Cay, Tortola, BVI (2016)

Ronan on the rope swing, Nanny Cay, BVI

Ronan on the rope swing, Nanny Cay, BVI (2016)

We have thoroughly enjoyed cruising the British Virgin Islands, and are grateful, once again, for the maritime lesson opportunities they have provided for the boys. Alas, weather, time and immigration restrictions have us pressing on. We have discussed our go forward cruising plans and have decided that at the next appropriate weather window we will be continuing our Caribbean journey heading south towards Grenada where we will ride out the next hurricane season. Our next port will be in St. Martin where we will post additional updates.