Statia courtesy flag

St. Bart, Statia and now the push for Grenada – by Randy

1 Reply
Anse de Columbier Bay, St. Bart

Anse de Columbier Bay, St. Bart

After enjoying our visit to St. Martin, we have moved along to explore some of the other Leeward Islands. Our first stop was beautiful St. Barthelemy (a.k.a. St. Bart). Long known as an exotic island playground for the rich and famous, we found it to also have a unique and welcoming small island feel. Our first night, we anchored in the harbor in front of Gustavia, St. Bart’s main town. Clearing immigration was a snap, done entirely online. Once cleared in, we explored the town and found a charming, sparkling clean town with dozens of restaurants and a row of high end designer stores that rival those found in Manhatten.  Although the town is charming,  we found the harbor in front of it to be very rolly with large swells coming in off the Caribbean Sea.  As a result, we elected to move the Pilots’ Discretion a few miles to the north to Anse de Colombier. Anse de Columbier is a sheltered bay

Anse de Columbier, St. Bart

Anse de Columbier, St. Bart

that at one time was owned by the Rockefeller family. The Rockefeller’s former home still sits atop the hill overlooking the bay. Although the Rockefeller home has in recent years fallen into a state of disrepair, they were kind enough to leave behind a beautiful stone dock that Patton found more than adequate for his nightly dinghy trips ashore.

After several days in St. Bart, we pressed on to St. Eustatius (a.k.a. Statia), a small volcanic island with a significant historical past. Long an important shipping port for the Dutch Caribbean, Statia is also famous for being the first foreign government to officially recognize the legitimacy of the fledgling democracy of the United States in 1776.

Fort Oranje, St. Eustatius
Fort Oranje, view towards Pilot’s Discretion in the Bay below
Fort Oranje, view towards The Quill volcano
Ruins overtaken by roots on the way to the fort
Quill volcano, St Eustatius

Quill volcano, St Eustatius

In addition to it’s historical significance, Statia is a beautiful island made up of five, now dormant volcanoes, the largest of which is the Quill volcano. It is truly incredible that the boys  were literally reading about the origins of volcanoes in their homeschool curriculum one day and hiking up the Quill to take a photos of the volcano’s crater the next.

Hiking the Quill volcano trail
Patton pointing the way on the Quill volcano trail, Statia
Resting spot with a view on the Quill trail
Hiking the Quill volcano trail
R&R siting on the rim of the crataer of the Quill volcano
R&T on the Quill volcano crater rim

We have thoroughly enjoyed our stay in historic Statia but the weather window clock is ticking and necessarily we must begin our final push towards Greanada tomorrow morning. We will be transitting waters offshore of St. Kitts, Nevis and Montserrat enroute to Guadeloupe. From Guadeloupe we will proceed to the French island of Martinique and finally the Grenadines before arriving at our hurricane season home marina in Grenada. 

On to St. Martin/St. Maarten and the Leeward Islands – by Theresa

1 Reply
R&R, Biras Creek, BVI

R&R, Biras Creek, Gorda Sound, BVI

After spending over a month enjoying the British Virgin Islands, it was finally time for us to move on. We staged for our 80 + nautical mile trip to St. Martin by spending our last night in the BVI in Gorda Sound on Virgin Gorda. At first light on April 25th, we were underway for St. Martin. Our first waypoint put us just offshore of Richard Branson’s private Necker Island.

Marina Fort-Louis, St. Martin

Marina Fort-Louis, St. Martin

From there we had very mild seas and sunny skies all the way into Marigot Bay, St. Martin. By the time we were securely anchored with Pilot’s Discretion’s tired crew ready to go ashore, customs and immigration had closed for the evening. As a result, we hoisted the quarantine flag and settled in for an evening aboard. I would go ashore first thing the next morning and deal with the immigration formalities.

Hoisting the French courtesy flag in St. Martin

Hoisting the French courtesy flag in St. Martin

On April 26th we cleared in at the Marina Fort Louis. The clear in procedure could not have gone more smoothly. Once the formalities had been taken care of we set out to explore by dinghy. The island is divided French from Dutch by a waterway and bay. If you transit by dinghy, there is no requirement to clear from the French (St. Martin) side into the Dutch (St. Maarten) side. There are rows and rows of waterfront restaraunts, all with dinghy docks and all very pet friendly.

Marigot, St. Martin

Marigot, St. Martin

The entire island has much to offer, so much so that we will not have as much time as we would like to explore, given our insurance induced requirement to be in Grenada by the end of this month. With that said, we are making the most of our time here. In addition to our dinghy exploration, we rented a car and drove around the island, scoping out the various beaches, bays and marinas.

Maho Beach, St. Martin

Maho Beach, St. Martin

Maho Beach, St. Martin

Maho Beach, St. Martin

First, we stopped in Maho Bay, on the Dutch side of the island, where the runway is only steps from the bay. The boys watched, in awe, the planes  landing just over the beach, a route that Randy has flown many times previously.

After lunch on the Dutch side of the island in Oyster Pond, we walked around
“the pond.”  Oyster Pond is actually a well protected inlet and home to Sunsail and Moorings charter companies. There are many mooring balls available in the pond.

Oyster Pond, St. Martin
Oyster Pond, St. Martin
Oyster Pond, St. Martin

Returning to the French side of the island, we visited the famous Orient, Anse Marcel, and Grand Case beaches.

Orient Bay Beach, St. Martin
Orient Bay Beach, St. Martin

imageAfter daylong beach hopping, and indulging in French and Dutch culinary cuisine, we hiked up to Fort Louis, overlooking Marigot Bay. The boys enjoyed running around exploring the fort, as we all enjoyed another glorious sunset and spectacular views of boats in the harbor below.

R&R, Fort Louis, St. Martin
Fort Louis, St. Martin
Fort Louis, St. Martin
Fort Louis, St. Martin
Fort Louis, St. Martin
Fort Louis, St. Martin

We will very definitely spend more time here when we return north up the Caribbean chain of islands after the next hurricane season passes.

For now, we are spending most of our time on the French side of the island. This weekend, we will cast off our lines once again. Our next stops will be St. Barts and Statia, until then, au revoir.

Ryan docking the dinghy

Developing the Boys’ Mariner Skills – by Theresa

2 Replies

It has been truly amazing watching the boys develop and hone their mariner skills, and what better place than the BVIs to sharpen their mooring abilities. In the British Virgin Islands, many, if not most bays have mooring balls as the preferred method of securing your boat. Capturing a mooring ball and securing a 50′ boat to it require close coordination between the helmsman and the deck crew. Since we have been in the BVIs for over  a month now the boys have become quite proficient at line handling and getting us on and off the moorings.

They are equally adept tying up in the marinas. Both boys have become fastidious about keeping their lines neat on the docks!

Flemish
Cool knots

They are developing great situational awareness driving the dinghy and glide into the dock with ease.

Ryan docking the dingy, Nanny Cay
Ryan docking the dingy, Nanny Cay
Ryan docking the dingy, Nanny Cay

It is all hands on deck at all times and we are fortunate to have such willing and capable crew.

We have thoroughly enjoyed cruising the British Virgin Islands, and are grateful for the maritime lesson opportunities they have provided for the boys.  Alas, weather, time and immigration restrictions have us pressing on. At the next appropriate weather window we will be continuing our Caribbean journey and heading on to St. Martin where we will post additional updates.

Patton, Randy, Ryan, Ronan, Cow Wreck Beach, BVI

The British Virgin Islands – by Theresa

5 Replies
Anegada

Anegada departure

Six months into our journey finds us in the British Virgin Islands (BVIs). We have so enjoyed cruising around the BVIs that we applied for, and received, an extension from immigration to lengthen our stay here.

The BVIs are a veritable paradise for cruising yachtsmen. Since most of the islands are within eyesight of each other, one can easily motor (or sail) from one island, or adventure, to another, with each island serving up a different flavor of local culture and quaintness. Below are a few highlights from our adventures in these beautiful islands thus far:

ANEGADA:

Randy and I have visited Anegada on two prior occasions in bareboat chartered vessels and on both occasions were in awe of its clear blue waters and pristine white sandy beaches. On our last trip chartering in the BVIs, Randy purchased the Anegada Approach chart, which we then had framed and hung in the Pilot’s Discretion galley. We have looked upon that framed chart for the past several years dreaming of returning in the  Pilot’s Discretion. We experienced yet another surreal moment in our journey when we arrived at the Anegada Approach in our own boat!

In terms of seamanship, Anegada is the furthest island away from all of the others and requires more time on open waters to reach. The island is completely surrounded by reefs (home to the 3rd largest barrier reef in the world), however, with careful navigation, and GPS, the approach is easily manageable. The beachside dining at the  Anegada Reef Hotel and the snorkeling at Cow Wreck Beach and Loblolly Bay make it well worth the trip.

Anegada Reef Hotel

Cow Wreck Beach

Patton, Randy, Ryan, Ronan, Cow Wreck Beach, BVI
Cow Wreck Beach
R&R, Cow Wreck Beach, Anegada, BVI

Loblolly Bay

The Big Bambo, Anegada, BVI
Loblolly Bay, Anegada, BVI
Loblolly Bay, Anegada, BVI
Loblolly Bay, Anegada, BVI

Departing Anegada

 

Anegada departure
Anegada departure

JOST VAN DYKE:

Jost Van Dyke has several harbors on the south side, all offering good anchorage, mooring fields, protection, restaurants and amenities. While moored in Little Harbor, we hiked the trail behind Sidneys’ Peace & Love to the top of the island and were rewarded with spectacular vista views.

Jost Van Dyke hike, BVI
Jost Van Dyke hike, BVI
R&R, Jost Van Dyke hike, BVI
Jost Van Dyke, hike, BVI
Pilot’s Discretion, Little Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVI
Jost Van Dyke hike, BVI

During our stay in Manchioneel Bay, we hiked the trail behind Fox’s Taboo to the infamous “Bubbly Pool.” At The Bubbly Pool, the Atlantic Ocean presses through a crevice in the rocks creating a natural bubbly whirl pool.

Jost Van Dyke, Bubbly Pool hike, BVI
Jost Van Dyke, Bubbly Pool hike, BVI
Jost Van Dyke, Bubbly Pool hike, BVI
Jost Van Dyke, Bubbly Pool, BVI

After a long day’s hike, we availed ourselves of the various restaurants on the island. While on Jost Van Dyke, the boys declared the pizza at Corsairs beachfront pizzeria in Great Harbor, the best in the world. Although I thought the pizza was excellent, I found it improbable to note the pizza and ignore the fresh lobsters that they serve that are the size of a small pony.

Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVI
White Bay, Jost Van Dyke, BVI
Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVI
Little Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVI

VIRGIN GORDA:

Virgin Gorda, BVI

Virgin Gorda, BVI

In Virgin Gorda, we picked up a mooring ball at Biras Creek in North Gorda Sound (aka Gorda Sound). Biras Creek has fewer mooring balls than other parts of Gorda Sound. As such it tends to be lower key, all the while providing easy access to all that the Sound has to offer.

Our top three favorites in Gorda Sound:

Hiking the Biras Creek Resort trails

Biras Creek Resort, Virgin Gorda, BVI
Biras Creek Resort Pool, Virgin Gorda, BVI
Pilot’s Discretion, Biras Creek, Virgin Gorda, BVI

The Rotti (a Caribbean curry dish) at the fat Virgin Café

Patton, Fat Virgin, Biras Creek, Vigin Gorda, BVI
Biras Creek, Vigin Gorda, BVI
Fat Virgin, Biras Creek, Virgin Gorda, BVI

The Bushwackers at Saba Rock

Saba Rock, BVI
Saba Rock, BVI
Randy, Saba Rock, BVI
Saba Rock, BVI

TORTOLA:

Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI

Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI

Tortola is is where most people begin their visit to the BVIs since the main airport is located here and the largest town, Road Harbor is also on the island. One of our favorite places on Tortola is Cane Garden Bay, a beautiful harbor with lots of dog friendly beach front restaurants and shops. It is very family friendly location, and as this past week was spring break for many schools, the mooring balls filled up quickly.

Picnic table pontoon, Cane Garden Bay, Tortola,BVI
Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, looking towards Jost Van Dyke, BVI

We are currently staying at the Nanny Cay marina both because it is a very well kept marina with several very good restaurants, a pool and beach as well as easy access to good provisioning. In addition, Nanny Cay has a full service boat yard, and marine vendors of every description. It is here that we are attending to our open maintenance issues before departing for St. Martin, the next leg of our journey.

The Indians, British Virgin Islands

Puerto Rico, The Spanish, U.S., & British Virgin Islands – by Theresa

6 Replies

We have been remiss in posting updates lately, partially because we have been busy running the boat, partially because we have had limited access to internet, and mostly because we have been enjoying the company of friends & family that have flown in to visit us.

El Yunque Rain Forest, Puerto Rico

El Yunque Rain Forest, Puerto Rico

Prior to departing the mainland of Puerto Rico, we had the opportunity and pleasure of travelling inland to visit El Yunque National Rain Forest where we spent the day hiking and swimming.

El Yunque Rain Forest, Puerto Rico

El Yunque is the only tropical rain forest in the U.S. National Forest System and was well worth the day long exploration.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

When the next appropriate weather window presented itself, we  set a coarse east stopping first in Ensenada Honda, Culebra, in The Spanish Virgin Islands; next in Francis Bay, St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands; and then on to Sopper’s Hole where we cleared immigration and customs  in the British Virgin Islands (BVI).

USVI
St. John, U.S.V.I.
Sun setting over St. Thomas, U.S.V.I.
Looking west from St. John towards St. Thomas

Having bareboat chartered in the BVI on two previous occasions, we experienced yet another surreal moment after clearing in to the BVIs in our own boat. Familiar with the islands from prior visits we immediately set off for some of our favored destinations.

Pilot's Discretion moored in front of The Last Resort, Bellamy Cay, Trellise Bay

Pilot’s Discretion moored in front of The Last Resort, Bellamy Cay, Trellise Bay

Trellis Bay, Beef Island was our next stop as it is a 5 minute easy access walk from the airport for visiting guests. Of couse no stop in Trellis Bay would be complete without visiting The Last Resort on Bellamy Cay in the middle of the Bay.

Next we crossed the Sir Francis Drake Channel to Great Harbor, Peter Island.  Great Harbor is less frequented by charter boats and we enjoyed a quiet evening at Ocean’s Seven restaurant ashore, and the solitude of only a few other boats moored around us.

Crossing Sir Francis Drake Channel
Ocean’s Seven, Great Harbor, Peter Island
Peter Island

No trip to the BVI for visiting guests would be complete without stopping at The Bight at Norman Cay.  From there, we snorkeled the Indians and the caves at Treasure Point, and also visited Pirates and the infamous William Thorton’s (a.k.a. Willy T’s).

The Indians, British Virgin Islands
Randy & Patton in front of the Indians, British Virgin Islands
The Indians,B.V.I.
Theresa free diving The Indians,B.V.I.
Theresa free diving The Indians,B.V.I.
The Indians,B.V.I.
The Caves, Treasure Point, Norman Island
Snorkeling The Caves, Treasure Point, Norman Island
Patton enjoying the sunset from The Bight, Norman Island, B.V.I.

We are currently tucked in at Nanny Cay Marina which is headquarters to several large charter companies. As such, it is a full service marina with a hotel and resort-style amenities on premises, making it another good spot for meeting visiting guests. It’s mid-island location on the south side of Tortola also makes it an ideal location for island hopping.

We still have much more of the BVI to explore and are looking forward to sharing additional updates on our journey as time and internet access allows.