Tag Archives: Little Harbor

Patton, Randy, Ryan, Ronan, Cow Wreck Beach, BVI

The British Virgin Islands – by Theresa

Anegada

Anegada departure

Six months into our journey finds us in the British Virgin Islands (BVIs). We have so enjoyed cruising around the BVIs that we applied for, and received, an extension from immigration to lengthen our stay here.

The BVIs are a veritable paradise for cruising yachtsmen. Since most of the islands are within eyesight of each other, one can easily motor (or sail) from one island, or adventure, to another, with each island serving up a different flavor of local culture and quaintness. Below are a few highlights from our adventures in these beautiful islands thus far:

ANEGADA:

Randy and I have visited Anegada on two prior occasions in bareboat chartered vessels and on both occasions were in awe of its clear blue waters and pristine white sandy beaches. On our last trip chartering in the BVIs, Randy purchased the Anegada Approach chart, which we then had framed and hung in the Pilot’s Discretion galley. We have looked upon that framed chart for the past several years dreaming of returning in the  Pilot’s Discretion. We experienced yet another surreal moment in our journey when we arrived at the Anegada Approach in our own boat!

In terms of seamanship, Anegada is the furthest island away from all of the others and requires more time on open waters to reach. The island is completely surrounded by reefs (home to the 3rd largest barrier reef in the world), however, with careful navigation, and GPS, the approach is easily manageable. The beachside dining at the  Anegada Reef Hotel and the snorkeling at Cow Wreck Beach and Loblolly Bay make it well worth the trip.

Cow Wreck Beach

Loblolly Bay

Departing Anegada

 

JOST VAN DYKE:

Jost Van Dyke has several harbors on the south side, all offering good anchorage, mooring fields, protection, restaurants and amenities. While moored in Little Harbor, we hiked the trail behind Sidneys’ Peace & Love to the top of the island and were rewarded with spectacular vista views.

During our stay in Manchioneel Bay, we hiked the trail behind Fox’s Taboo to the infamous “Bubbly Pool.” At The Bubbly Pool, the Atlantic Ocean presses through a crevice in the rocks creating a natural bubbly whirl pool.

After a long day’s hike, we availed ourselves of the various restaurants on the island. While on Jost Van Dyke, the boys declared the pizza at Corsairs beachfront pizzeria in Great Harbor, the best in the world. Although I thought the pizza was excellent, I found it improbable to note the pizza and ignore the fresh lobsters that they serve that are the size of a small pony.

VIRGIN GORDA:

Virgin Gorda, BVI

Virgin Gorda, BVI

In Virgin Gorda, we picked up a mooring ball at Biras Creek in North Gorda Sound (aka Gorda Sound). Biras Creek has fewer mooring balls than other parts of Gorda Sound. As such it tends to be lower key, all the while providing easy access to all that the Sound has to offer.

Our top three favorites in Gorda Sound:

Hiking the Biras Creek Resort trails

The Rotti (a Caribbean curry dish) at the fat Virgin Café

The Bushwackers at Saba Rock

TORTOLA:

Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI

Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI

Tortola is is where most people begin their visit to the BVIs since the main airport is located here and the largest town, Road Harbor is also on the island. One of our favorite places on Tortola is Cane Garden Bay, a beautiful harbor with lots of dog friendly beach front restaurants and shops. It is very family friendly location, and as this past week was spring break for many schools, the mooring balls filled up quickly.

We are currently staying at the Nanny Cay marina both because it is a very well kept marina with several very good restaurants, a pool and beach as well as easy access to good provisioning. In addition, Nanny Cay has a full service boat yard, and marine vendors of every description. It is here that we are attending to our open maintenance issues before departing for St. Martin, the next leg of our journey.

Little Harbor, Abacos to Spanish Wells, Eleuthera (Latitude 25° 32.478″ N, Longitude 76° 45.427″ W) – by Theresa

Theresa & Randy atop the Hope Town Light House

Theresa & Randy atop the Hope Town Light House

We are now two months into our grand adventure with one month in the Bahamas. The past several weeks we spent an amazing eighteen (18) consecutive days tied to various mooring balls in the southern Abacos. Prior to refitting the boat with a Spectra water-maker and increased battery charge capacity, we could not have stayed untied from the dock for  so long. However, with these, and other additions, we had pleasant stays and extended safe harbor.

 

 

 

 

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Yesterday we took advantage of a brief weather window and exited Little Harbor Cut, off Great Abaco Island, out into the open waters of the North Atlantic. The weather data we reviewed called for six to eight foot (6′-8′) seas with 15-20 knot winds out of the NE, all of which we encountered during our passage. Additionally, we had occasional ten foot (10′) waves splashing over our bow. This gave us, and our wiper blades, vigorous exercise and served as a reminder to respect the powerful energy of the sea.

Everyone on board had firm sea legs beneath them and handled the rough sea conditions well. While Patton did appear a little green at times, and had difficulty finding a spot to lay comfortably, he too mustered up strong sea legs for the journey (all four of them).

Latitude 25° 32.478" N, Longitude 76° 45.427" W

Latitude 25° 32.478″ N, Longitude 76° 45.427″ W

We transited 48 nm south in the North Atlantic. The boys got a practical life geography lesson when we crossed one degree further south towards the equator and the chart plotter position rolled over from 26o north to 25o north. The seas calmed when we rounded the point and entered the lee of Royal Island, although the winds were still producing white caps even there. This made for a sporty entry into the narrow channel as we glided into Spanish Wells mid-afternoon.

As I write this, today it is Thanksgiving Day in the USA. While Thanksgiving is not a holiday that is celebrated in the Bahamas, we intend to celebrate it in traditional style, on board with a turkey and all the fixings. After all, we have innumerable blessings to be grateful for, not the least of which are safe passages, good weather and amazing family and friends, including those new friends we have made along the way.

Hope Town, the Royal Bahamian Defense Force and Little Harbor – by Randy

Hope Town Light House

Hope Town Light House

HOPE TOWN

Since our last post we have covered quite a bit of ground. We spent five fabulous days moored in Hope Town Harbor on Elbow Cay. As most people familiar with the Abacos already know, Hope Town is a very quaint little town with a well protected harbor that is a strong draw for cruisers as they work their way through the Abacos. The harbor has one of the last kerosene fired lighthouses still in existence, plus numerous shops and eateries that make re provisioning easy and convenient.

While we were in Hope Town, we were all treated to some fantastic views from atop the lighthouse. From the lighthouse you can see the Atlantic on one side and the Sea of Abaco on the other with a commanding view of the Hope Town harbor thrown in for good measure.

In addition to the spectacular daytime views, we got a unique opportunity to climb the lighthouse with the lighthouse keeper and Ryan and Ronan got to light the giant kerosene lantern and hand crank the light house lens.

We could have easily spent another week or more hanging out in Hope Town but believe it or not, we are actually beginning to come under some schedule pressure. We still need to get down to Staniel Cay in the Exumas by December 1 so that we can pick up some friends who are flying down from New Hampshire, therefor it is time for us to move on.

 BAHAMAS ROYAL DEFENSE BOARDING

The day we left Hope Town was a beautiful clear day with light winds on the Sea of Abaco, making our transit south to Little Harbor both scenic and comfortable. About half way into our day, we passed a Royal Bahamian Defense Force patrol boat that captured the boys attention when they saw the multiple deck guns and 50 caliber machine guns mounted to the rails. We were all caught by surprise when the patrol boat launched a twin engine RIB (rigid inflatable boat) crewed by 7 heavily armed sailors who pulled alongside the Pilots’ Discretion and advised us that we were about to be boarded.

Bahamas Royal Defense Force

Bahamas Royal Defense Force

Although I participated in many such boardings as a crew member in the Coast Guard many years ago, I must confess that I felt some apprehension as we had to heave to and allow the armed crew members aboard. The good news is that all of the Bahamian sailors were extremely professional. They conducted a thorough search of the Pilots’ Discretion (we did not learn until after they had completed their search that there had been a boat carrying 100 Haitian refugees in the area and the Bahamian Defence Force was involved in a large scale search for them), after which they wished us a safe journey and were off to their next boarding. An hour after our boarding we were gliding smoothly into Little Harbor where we picked up a mooring ball and settled in for the night.

LITTLE HARBOR

Pilots Discretion position 2014 November, Litle Harbor, Abaco, Bahamas

Pilots Discretion position 2014 November, Litle Harbor, Abaco, Bahamas

Little Harbor as the name implies, is a small harbor located on the southeastern coast of Great Abaco Island. There are a few very nice homes, a completely protected harbor teeming with marine life of all descriptions, a great reef for snorkeling and some magnificent beaches. Beyond the natural beauty of this harbor, it is also known as a favorite stop for cruisers because  it has one of the Bahamas better known cruiser hangouts known as Pete’s Pub. The pub is named appropriately enough for it’s owner Pete Johnston, a world renowned sculptor. Pete also has a gallery on the island to display his works plus the works of the many artisans who travel to work with Pete on various projects. We were looking forward to visiting the pub and gallery but since they are only open Thursday thru Sunday this time of year and it was Wednesday afternoon when we pulled in, we did not expect to do anything but chill the first night on the mooring. After getting the Pilots’ Discretion secured for the evening, we all took the dinghy to shore to look around.

Pete's Pub Dock, Little Harbor, Great Abaco, Bahamas

Pete’s Pub Dock, Little Harbor, Great Abaco, Bahamas

As we were walking down the dock, a big, booming voice called out from the closed pub and said “you guys look like you could use a drink”. It was none other than Pete himself and the next thing we know, we are sitting with Pete and a dozen other folks, both cruisers and locals. Pete proceeded to cook dinner and provide drinks for all and as he said “the restaurant is open tomorrow, you can’t buy a drink on this island tonight.” Ryan and Ronan were eating like they had not been fed for weeks. Ronan was very impressed with the small, freshly cooked “chickens” and he told Pete how good they were. Pete, much to Ronan’s surprise replied ” those aren’t chickens, those are pigeons, I shot them out of that tree over there, this afternoon.” Ronan who at times has been accused of being a finicky eater was pleasantly surprised by Pete’s culinary skills.