Tag Archives: Bitter End Yacht Club

LEVERICK BAY & GORDA SOUND, TORTOLA, BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS – by Theresa

We picked up a mooring ball at the Leverick Bay Resort where there was evidence of hurricane damage in the form of a few blue tarps on the roofs of some of the structures and several large boats that had been washed firmly ashore. Many mooring balls were missing pendants, so we radioed Leverick Bay Resort, who guided us to a usable mooring. The resort was in the full on party mode with live music and all of the restaurants, bars and souvenir shops open for business.

Leverick Bay, Virgin Gorda, BVIs (March 2018)

Leverick Bay, Virgin Gorda, BVIs (March 2018)

It was almost surreal that this place could be so much business as usual when across the bay (Gorda Sound), the destruction was total and complete. From Leverick Bay, we ventured just around the corner to Gorda Sound where many of our very favorite spots in the BVIs were located. [See British Virgin Islands (2015) Saba Rock had a great restaurant and boutique hotel – totally destroyed. We have been informed there are plans in  place to rebuild.

Saba Rock, Gorda Sound, Virgin Gorda (March 2018)

Saba Rock, Gorda Sound, Virgin Gorda (March 2018)

Directly across the water taxi channel was the Bitter End Yacht Club – reduced to piles of broken lumber and smashed furniture. 

Bitter And Yacht Club, North Sound, Virgin Gorda, BVIs (March 2018)

Bitter And Yacht Club, North Sound, Virgin Gorda, BVIs (March 2018)

Ryan & Ronan surveying the hurricane damage, Gorda Sound, Virgin Gorda, BVIs (March 2018)

Ryan & Ronan surveying the hurricane damage, Gorda Sound, Virgin Gorda, BVIs (March 2018)

Our favorite spot in the world for roti, The Fat Virgin – completely destroyed.

Fat Virgin, North Sound, Virgin Gorda, BVIs (March 2018)

Fat Virgin, North Sound, Virgin Gorda, BVIs (March 2018)

Next to the Fat Virgin was a series of small but very nice homes and cottages where the local workers lived. All of their homes have been totally leveled, their livelihoods destroyed. Many of these people will have to retrain for other work, leave or both.

There was a magnificent Yacht Club designed with docks for mega yachts in Biras Creek. The docks are completely gone and the majestic white building that served as an exclusive restaurant and club house is boarded up, watched over by a couple of security guards.

Gorda Sound, Virgin Gorda, BVIs (March 2018)

Gorda Sound, Virgin Gorda, BVIs (March 2018)

Gorda sound was eerily full of empty mooring ball. In sum, six month’s after Hurricane Irma, Gorda sound is complete void of eany boats or restaurants or resources. Leverick Bay, on the other hand, is a good spot to spend the night on a mooring and dine ashore. It is also a prime local for an early morning launch to our all time favorite spot in the BVIs, Anegada, which we were informed escaped Irma’s wrath. More on Anegada in our following post.

Patton, Randy, Ryan, Ronan, Cow Wreck Beach, BVI

The British Virgin Islands – by Theresa

Anegada

Anegada departure

Six months into our journey finds us in the British Virgin Islands (BVIs). We have so enjoyed cruising around the BVIs that we applied for, and received, an extension from immigration to lengthen our stay here.

The BVIs are a veritable paradise for cruising yachtsmen. Since most of the islands are within eyesight of each other, one can easily motor (or sail) from one island, or adventure, to another, with each island serving up a different flavor of local culture and quaintness. Below are a few highlights from our adventures in these beautiful islands thus far:

ANEGADA:

Randy and I have visited Anegada on two prior occasions in bareboat chartered vessels and on both occasions were in awe of its clear blue waters and pristine white sandy beaches. On our last trip chartering in the BVIs, Randy purchased the Anegada Approach chart, which we then had framed and hung in the Pilot’s Discretion galley. We have looked upon that framed chart for the past several years dreaming of returning in the  Pilot’s Discretion. We experienced yet another surreal moment in our journey when we arrived at the Anegada Approach in our own boat!

In terms of seamanship, Anegada is the furthest island away from all of the others and requires more time on open waters to reach. The island is completely surrounded by reefs (home to the 3rd largest barrier reef in the world), however, with careful navigation, and GPS, the approach is easily manageable. The beachside dining at the  Anegada Reef Hotel and the snorkeling at Cow Wreck Beach and Loblolly Bay make it well worth the trip.

Cow Wreck Beach

Loblolly Bay

Departing Anegada

 

JOST VAN DYKE:

Jost Van Dyke has several harbors on the south side, all offering good anchorage, mooring fields, protection, restaurants and amenities. While moored in Little Harbor, we hiked the trail behind Sidneys’ Peace & Love to the top of the island and were rewarded with spectacular vista views.

During our stay in Manchioneel Bay, we hiked the trail behind Fox’s Taboo to the infamous “Bubbly Pool.” At The Bubbly Pool, the Atlantic Ocean presses through a crevice in the rocks creating a natural bubbly whirl pool.

After a long day’s hike, we availed ourselves of the various restaurants on the island. While on Jost Van Dyke, the boys declared the pizza at Corsairs beachfront pizzeria in Great Harbor, the best in the world. Although I thought the pizza was excellent, I found it improbable to note the pizza and ignore the fresh lobsters that they serve that are the size of a small pony.

VIRGIN GORDA:

Virgin Gorda, BVI

Virgin Gorda, BVI

In Virgin Gorda, we picked up a mooring ball at Biras Creek in North Gorda Sound (aka Gorda Sound). Biras Creek has fewer mooring balls than other parts of Gorda Sound. As such it tends to be lower key, all the while providing easy access to all that the Sound has to offer.

Our top three favorites in Gorda Sound:

Hiking the Biras Creek Resort trails

The Rotti (a Caribbean curry dish) at the fat Virgin Café

The Bushwackers at Saba Rock

TORTOLA:

Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI

Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI

Tortola is is where most people begin their visit to the BVIs since the main airport is located here and the largest town, Road Harbor is also on the island. One of our favorite places on Tortola is Cane Garden Bay, a beautiful harbor with lots of dog friendly beach front restaurants and shops. It is very family friendly location, and as this past week was spring break for many schools, the mooring balls filled up quickly.

We are currently staying at the Nanny Cay marina both because it is a very well kept marina with several very good restaurants, a pool and beach as well as easy access to good provisioning. In addition, Nanny Cay has a full service boat yard, and marine vendors of every description. It is here that we are attending to our open maintenance issues before departing for St. Martin, the next leg of our journey.