Last post on the British Virgin Islands, and then on to Puerto Rico. Our last stop in the British Virgin Islands (BVIs) was Cane Garden Bay, a large sheltered bay, on the nortwest end of Tortola. The bay was full of mooring balls, and several beachside restaurants and shops were open for business. The dinghy dock was missing some boards but was still usable.
Dinghy dock, Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVIs (March 2018)
Quintos, which use to be located at the base of the dock (to the right), regrettably did not survive the storm.
Quintos Restaurant, Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVIs (March 2018)
Like the other islands we visited in the BVIs, new construction and repairs take place right alongside the damaged structures.
Construction, Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVIs (March 2018)
Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVIs (March 2018)
We were thrilled to see that our favorite spot in Cane Garden Bay, Myett’s, had reopened for business.
Myett’s is open in Cane Garden Bay, BVIs (March 2018)
Myett’s Restaurant, Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVIs (March 2018)
Randy at Myett’s Restaurant, Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVIs (March 2018)
Ryan at Myett’s Restaurant, Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVIs (March 2018)
Myett’s in Cane Garden Bay, BVIs (March 2018)
In addition to great food and ambiance, Myett’s is a prime spot for catching spectacular sunsets.
Sunset view from Myett’s (looking out towards Jost Van Dyke) in Cane Garden Bay, BVIs (March 2018)
Ronan walking the beach at sunset, Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, British Virgin Islands
Cane Garden Bay, BVIs (March 2018)
In sum, the BVIs suffered significant damage from Hurricanes Irma and Maria, however, no amount of hurricanes can take away the intrinsic beauty of these islands or the strength and fortitude of the people who live in these islands. The turquoise blue waters, the magnificent sunsets and the friendly hospitality of the people all remain and make cruising these islands well worth the visit!
Six months after Hurricane Irma, Jost Van Dyke, like much of the BVIs, displays the dichotomy of destruction and regrowth. In the days immediately following Hurricane Irma, the cruisers’ and charter boat hot spot, “Foxy’s,” in Great Harbor, served as a center for refuge and relief disbursements. Six months later, Foxy’s is up and running and celebrated its 50th Anniversary with a grand soirée. Foxy, with his whimsical sense of humor, sang at the 50th Anniversary celebration, what has become known as “Foxy’s Hurricane Irma Song.
Ryan & Ronan at Foxy’s, Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs, (March 2018)
Foxy’s, Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs, (March 2018)
Ryan & Ronan, Jenga at Foxy’s, Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs, (March 2018)
Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, seemed to have fewer mooring balls than were available in previous visits, however, there was plenty of room to anchor and the harbor was full of boats.
Great Harobor, Jost Van Dyke (March 2018)
There is also a brand new dinghy dock directly in front of Foxy’s.
New dinghy dock, Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs (March 2018)
New dinghy dock in front of Foxy’s, Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs, (March 2018)
Customs and Immigration services are available a short walk down the beach, in Great Harbor. It is a good place to clear in, if heading south, or out, if heading north. Along the beach, are the lingering signs of Hurricane Irma’s destruction, and the resiliency of the recovery efforts.
Church, Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs (March 2018)
Church, Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs (March 2018)
Church, Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs (March 2018)
Church, Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs (March 2018)
Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs (March 2018)
New tour taxi, Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs (March 2018)
Relief tent in a box, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs (March 2018)
Great Harobor tour/taxi, Jost Van Dyke (March 2018)
Corsair’s Jeep, Great Harobor, Jost Van Dyke (March 2018)
Corsair’s is rebuilding
WHITE HARBOR
With Pilots’ Discretion securely moored in Great Harbor, we rode the dinghy over to White Harbor. In the immediate aftermath of Hurricane Irma, weekly flotillas cruised into White Bay to assist in the rebuilding efforts. Six months later, as we were repeatedly told “the drinks are still cold and the water is still blue.” The infamous Soggy Dollar and Hendo’s were both open and fully operational.
Scott & Randy walking ashore to the Soggy Dollar, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs (March 2018)
Ronan, Ryan, Randy & Scott heading into Soggy Dollar, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs (March 2018)
Hendo’s, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs (March 2018)
New palm trees outside Soggy Dollar, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs (March 2018)
Soggy Dollar & Hendo’s, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs, (March 2018)
White Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs, (March 2018)
Soggy Dollar, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke (March 2018)
LITTLE HARBOR
Little Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, appeared, to us, to be the hardest hurricane hit harbor on Jost Van Dyke. On previous visits to Jost Van Dyke, we always spent a few nights in Little Harbor because it seemed quieter and quainter to us (translation fewer party boats and more family friendly). Sidney’s Peace and Love, Harris’ Restaurant and Abe’s were all places not to be missed. Now they are all missing.
The old Sidney’s Peace and Love restaurant and souvenir shop (located to the left of the two white doors in the photos below, is completely gone. In the immediate aftermath of Hurricane Irma, a large ferry boat landed atop the building wiping out the entire structure. We were glad to see that Sidney’s niece “Strawberry” has since reopened the restaurant on the other side of the building.
Sidney’s Peace & Love is open, little Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIS (March 2018)
Harris’ Restaurant was likewise completely destroyed, but is reportedly rebuilding soon.
Harris’s restaurant is gone, but is reportedly rebuilding, Little Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVIs (March 2018)
Leaving Jost Van Dyke astern, we next cruised over to another one of our favorite bays in the BVIs, Cane Garden Bay. . .
Six months into our journey finds us in the British Virgin Islands (BVIs). We have so enjoyed cruising around the BVIs that we applied for, and received, an extension from immigration to lengthen our stay here.
The BVIs are a veritable paradise for cruising yachtsmen. Since most of the islands are within eyesight of each other, one can easily motor (or sail) from one island, or adventure, to another, with each island serving up a different flavor of local culture and quaintness. Below are a few highlights from our adventures in these beautiful islands thus far:
ANEGADA:
Randy and I have visited Anegada on two prior occasions in bareboat chartered vessels and on both occasions were in awe of its clear blue waters and pristine white sandy beaches. On our last trip chartering in the BVIs, Randy purchased the Anegada Approach chart, which we then had framed and hung in the Pilot’s Discretion galley. We have looked upon that framed chart for the past several years dreaming of returning in the Pilot’s Discretion. We experienced yet another surreal moment in our journey when we arrived at the Anegada Approach in our own boat!
In terms of seamanship, Anegada is the furthest island away from all of the others and requires more time on open waters to reach. The island is completely surrounded by reefs (home to the 3rd largest barrier reef in the world), however, with careful navigation, and GPS, the approach is easily manageable. The beachside dining at the Anegada Reef Hotel and the snorkeling at Cow Wreck Beach and Loblolly Bay make it well worth the trip.
Anegada Reef Hotel
Cow Wreck Beach
Patton, Randy, Ryan, Ronan, Cow Wreck Beach, BVI
Cow Wreck Beach
R&R, Cow Wreck Beach, Anegada, BVI
Loblolly Bay
The Big Bambo, Anegada, BVI
Loblolly Bay, Anegada, BVI
Loblolly Bay, Anegada, BVI
Loblolly Bay, Anegada, BVI
Departing Anegada
Anegada departure
Anegada departure
JOST VAN DYKE:
Jost Van Dyke has several harbors on the south side, all offering good anchorage, mooring fields, protection, restaurants and amenities. While moored in Little Harbor, we hiked the trail behind Sidneys’ Peace & Love to the top of the island and were rewarded with spectacular vista views.
Jost Van Dyke hike, BVI
Jost Van Dyke hike, BVI
R&R, Jost Van Dyke hike, BVI
Jost Van Dyke, hike, BVI
Pilot’s Discretion, Little Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVI
Jost Van Dyke hike, BVI
During our stay in Manchioneel Bay, we hiked the trail behind Fox’s Taboo to the infamous “Bubbly Pool.” At The Bubbly Pool, the Atlantic Ocean presses through a crevice in the rocks creating a natural bubbly whirl pool.
Jost Van Dyke, Bubbly Pool hike, BVI
Jost Van Dyke, Bubbly Pool hike, BVI
Jost Van Dyke, Bubbly Pool hike, BVI
Jost Van Dyke, Bubbly Pool, BVI
After a long day’s hike, we availed ourselves of the various restaurants on the island. While on Jost Van Dyke, the boys declared the pizza at Corsairs beachfront pizzeria in Great Harbor, the best in the world. Although I thought the pizza was excellent, I found it improbable to note the pizza and ignore the fresh lobsters that they serve that are the size of a small pony.
Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVI
White Bay, Jost Van Dyke, BVI
Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVI
Little Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVI
VIRGIN GORDA:
Virgin Gorda, BVI
In Virgin Gorda, we picked up a mooring ball at Biras Creek in North Gorda Sound (aka Gorda Sound). Biras Creek has fewer mooring balls than other parts of Gorda Sound. As such it tends to be lower key, all the while providing easy access to all that the Sound has to offer.
Our top three favorites in Gorda Sound:
Hiking the Biras Creek Resort trails
Biras Creek Resort, Virgin Gorda, BVI
Biras Creek Resort Pool, Virgin Gorda, BVI
Pilot’s Discretion, Biras Creek, Virgin Gorda, BVI
The Rotti (a Caribbean curry dish) at the fat Virgin Café
Patton, Fat Virgin, Biras Creek, Vigin Gorda, BVI
Biras Creek, Vigin Gorda, BVI
Fat Virgin, Biras Creek, Virgin Gorda, BVI
The Bushwackers at Saba Rock
Saba Rock, BVI
Saba Rock, BVI
Randy, Saba Rock, BVI
Saba Rock, BVI
TORTOLA:
Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI
Tortola is is where most people begin their visit to the BVIs since the main airport is located here and the largest town, Road Harbor is also on the island. One of our favorite places on Tortola is Cane Garden Bay, a beautiful harbor with lots of dog friendly beach front restaurants and shops. It is very family friendly location, and as this past week was spring break for many schools, the mooring balls filled up quickly.
Picnic table pontoon, Cane Garden Bay, Tortola,BVI
Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, looking towards Jost Van Dyke, BVI
We are currently staying at the Nanny Cay marina both because it is a very well kept marina with several very good restaurants, a pool and beach as well as easy access to good provisioning. In addition, Nanny Cay has a full service boat yard, and marine vendors of every description. It is here that we are attending to our open maintenance issues before departing for St. Martin, the next leg of our journey.
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