Category Archives: St. Lucia

Cane Garden Bay, British Virgin Islands

Mad Dash for the British Virgin Islands, 9 Countries in 6 Days – by Randy

Underway

Underway

We had a great time in St. Lucia, we got a lot accomplished and look forward to returning in the future. Unfortunately, the various delays that we encountered in St. Lucia, waiting on parts and technicians left us with our scheduling backs against the wall. We had plans for meeting our good friends Mike Cleary, Bridget Finnegan, and Mike’s daughter Madison in the BVIs. They had a Sunsail sailboat chartered in Tortola beginning on February 19, so when we literally dropped the solar panel technician on the fuel dock in St. Lucia on the morning of February 13th, we knew we had some serious real estate to cover to be 350 miles north in just six days. During our dash north we cruised through the territorial waters of St. Lucia, Martinique, Dominica, Montserrat, Guadeloupe, St. Kitts, Nevis, Statia, St. Marteen and finally the British Virgin Islands. Wow, I am tired just writing about it.

Most of the trip was run in seas of 4-6 ft, with a few periods of 8-9 ft, and even a day with the Caribbean Sea as smooth as a small mountain lake. Our speed averaged 8-10 knots but when we had the opportunity, we ran as high as 25 knots to keep the scenery moving. We have visited all of the countries we just mentioned during our trip south last year so although we are disappointed that we had to hustle through these countries to meet our friends, it was worth it to get to be in the BVI with friends that are virtually like family to us.

Norman Island (The Bight) and North Gorda Soud

Bridget, Madison & Mike, Bubbly Pool, Jost Van Dyke, BVI

Bridget, Madison & Mike, Bubbly Pool, Jost Van Dyke, BVI

Once in the BVI we began our trip by heading off to the Bight on Norman island. A mandatory stop at the infamous Willie T floating bar and grill was followed by a trip to Gorda Sound, Virgin Gorda, and Jost Van Dyke.

We followed that up with a two day trip to Anegada, then over to Marina Cay and The Baths.

Anegada

Marina Cay

The Baths

After that whirlwind, we capped the Cleary clan’s trip to the BVI by meeting our cruising friends Jeff and Izzy Rogers for an evening of good food, conversation and music in one of our favorite spots in the BVI, Cane Garden Bay.

Cane Garden Bay, British Virgin Islands

Cane Garden Bay, British Virgin Islands

Our friends have gone home and it is time for our adventure to continue. It occurs to me that this nomad lifestyle works well for our family. I have an idea, I think we should keep this trip going. We will discuss it at dinner tonight and I will get back to you. For now, keep following our progress as our  life adventure continues …

Monocrystilline flexible solar panels

The Continuing Evolution of a Cruising Boat – by Randy

Those of you that have been following our blog from the beginning know that we spent a good deal of time and effort prior to our departure to equip the Pilots’ Discretion appropriately for an extended cruise through the Caribbean. You also know that most, but not all of what we have added has worked well for us. Like all cruising boats, our Sea Ray 480 Motor Yacht is a product of compromises and as opportunities to improve upon those compromises have presented themselves, we have made some changes to our boat’s original configuration. The past several weeks in St. Lucia we have made some additional evolutionary improvements to our floating home.

The boys taking the new 40 for a spin

The boys taking the new 40 for a spin

We will use this post to detail some of those improvements for our readers. Since it is more fun to talk about what is working than that which is not, we will start there. Our 11′ AB center console tender has been like the family pickup truck during our cruise and it has served us well. The only drawback we have noted with the dinghy itself is that it has been somewhat under powered when we travel in it with all hands aboard. That characteristic is only growing more pronounced as the boys are doing what young boys do and that is growing like weeds. We decided to splurge and trade in our trusty Yamaha 25hp outboard for a new 40hp model. In addition to the new motor we put on a new, larger set of smart tab trim tabs to better handle the increased power. The good folks at International Inflatables in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia did the work for us and we are happy to report that our trusty pickup truck dinghy now has more in common with a Mustang GT than it does with an F150 pickup. The new motor brings the dinghy out of the water and onto a plane instantly with a full load on board. That may seem like a small difference but when we have several miles to cover to get

The boys taking the new 40 for a spin

The boys taking the new 40 for a spin

to a town or shopping center for provisioning the difference between cruising at displacement speed (6-10 mph) and our new planing speed (25-30 mph) is huge! When we are in marinas that require us to Med moor (that is when we tie the Pilots’ Discretion with the stern to the dock) we have had to leave the dinghy in the water so that we have a clear path to shore from the big boat. As a result, while we were in Grenada this past summer, the dinghy had so much marine growth attached to its hull that we literally had to chisel it off. To combat this we elected to paint the dinghy hull with an anti-marine growth bottom paint. Hopefully we can now spend less time with a snorkel mask and chisel in hand.

One of the other issues we have been dealing with is limited battery capacity. The Pilots’ Discretion is a planing hull design, great for going fast, not so good for carrying lots of heavy batteries around to provide DC electrical current to power things like refrigeration or coffee pots while at anchor. As a result, we have been running our generator a lot when not in a marina (over 1500 hours since leaving the states). This week, we have added 4 monocrystilline solar panels to the roof of the Pilots’ Discretion. The panels are capable of generating just over 40 amps per hour of power in ideal conditions. Given that our cruising grounds is by definition in the tropics, we have lots of long and sunny days that will allow us to harvest enough free electricity via our solar panels to reduce our generator run time by a little more than 400 hours per year. In addition to being one of the few things that we could add to the boat that will actually pay for themselves, the solar panels will save us diesel fuel thereby giving us added range.

Crushed box corner was not looking good

Crushed box corner was not looking good

The final upgrade that we had planned for this week is an upgrade to our washer and dryer. The system that came with the boat was very small and really only sufficient to wash a few small items at a time. The result is that we have become quite familiar with the various laundromats throughout the Caribbean. As you can imagine, two growing boys, lots of salt water and sand,  equals constant laundry. The manufacturer of our original unit has come out with a new washer that is dimensionally identical on the outside to our original unit. That allows us to utilize it in the same locker space that we had been using but the new washer has 50% greater washing capacity. Boy, were we excited when we ordered our new unit. Images of lounging on the bow instead of the laundromat literally dancing in our heads as they unloaded the new washer onto the dock. Those images literally all came crashing down with a loud thud when we realized the new washer had been crushed during shipment.

imageNow, I admit I am not the Maytag repairman but I know enough about loud thuds to know the noise I heard could only mean bad things. The new washer and dryer are crushed beyond repair so our report on our new washing machine will have to wait for the replacement unit to catch up to us somewhere north of here in the next few months. For the time being, we will utilize the space in our utility room designated for a washer and dryer as additional storage space. As they say, when life presents you with lemons, make lemonade.

Ryan, Ronan, Theresa, Randy & Patton @ Diamond Falls, St. Lucia, Botanical Gardens

St. Lucia: Exploring the Island – by Ryan

Since we arrived in St. Lucia a couple of weeks ago, we have all been having fun exploring the island (after school, of course).

Marigot Bay, St. Lucia

Marigot Bay, St. Lucia

From Marigot Bay, we visited two fishing villages, Anse La Ray, and Canaries. We learned that most of their fishing skiffs are made with wood from the local rain forest and that the majority of the fish they catch is sold to local restaurants and resorts. We had great views of the Ocean and the Pitons on our drive along the coast.

Grass (Palm Frond) Grasshopper

Grass (Palm Frond) Grasshopper

We also visited Diamond Falls and the Botanical Gardens. Our guide there was nick-named “Alexander the Great.” He told us about all of the plants and trees in the gardens. Most of the plants we saw only grow in tropical climates so we don’t see them growing in the United States. Alex the Great also made me a grass hopper. Literally a “grass hopper” made from local palm fronds.

Alex also took us to this awesome waterfall that was approximately twenty-five (25) meters tall. The water from the waterfall is different colors every day depending on which minerals are flowing through the water. After the waterfall he showed us a river with water from an underground spring heated by the volcano. It was very hot and super cool!

Another cool place we visited was a drive in volcano and sulphur springs in Soufriere. The sulphur smelled like rotten eggs. Our guide at the volcano told us there has not been a major eruption in forty thousand (40,000) years. He also told us that once another guide was showing tourists how below the ground there was hot boiling water. He jumped down below so they could hear the ground crack. He cracked the ground open and fell into a hole of hot water. He was OK, but after that they put up railings.

This past week we left Marigot Bay and cruised north to Rodney Bay. We pulled into the channel right behind former Apple CEO Steve Jobs’s Mega Yacht “Venus.” It is 78.2 meters (235′) long and is an unusual looking boat. It looks like, if you looked at it from up above, an iphone resting on top of an ipad, in an ipad box.

We are currently at he IGY marina in Rodney Bay. It is a great spot and has everything a boater would want or need. This includes a marine chandlery, floating docks, 50 and 60 Hz power, restaurants, a pool, and two malls and a bulk provisioning store nearby. There is also a great big field where a lot of kids come to play soccer. Yesterday we played in a soccer match at a nearby school.

Soccer in S. Lucia

Soccer in S. Lucia

Soccer in S. Lucia

Soccer in S. Lucia

St. Lucia has been a lot of fun and I hope we can come back someday!

 

Sea Ray Neigbors, Marigot Bay, St. Lucia

NEW YEARS EVE IN ST. LUCIA – by Theresa

Cruising Past the Pitons, St. Lucia

Cruising Past the Pitons, St. Lucia

On our previous stop in St. Lucia earlier this year, we cruised past Marigot Bay and moored in the shadows of the Pitons. On this, our return trip, we motored on by the Pitons and cruised into Marigot Bay. We tied up in the most southeastern corner of the bay, directly in front of Capella Resort. As residents of the marina we had full access to all of the resort amenities, of which we took full advantage! We were fortunate enough to ring in the New Year here and were rewarded with a spectacular midnight fireworks display over the bay with front row viewing from the bow of the Pilot’s Discretion.

Marigot Bay is a noted hurricane hole that is lined with mangroves, beaches, and a plethora of restaurants, all dog friendly and with excellent cuisine. Many of the restaurants are only accessible via boat, either in your own dinghy or one of the many water taxis and ferries that service the bay. Not surprisingly, the boys particularly enjoyed the rope swing at the beach and kayaking around the calm waters in the bay.

Upon advice of cruising friends that have been in Marigot Bay before us, we sought out the hiking trail behind the Rain Forest Café (an actual café in a rain forest setting, not the chain restaurant). The hike was arduous, and very steep at times, but the views made it well worth the climb in the end.

Sea Ray, Marigot Bay, St. Lucia

Sea Ray, Marigot Bay, St. Lucia

Throughout our Caribbean voyage, we have seen countless sail boats and trawlers, but we have not seen many fellow Sea Rays. We were pleasantly surprised when we pulled into Marigot Bay to find several Sea Rays underway in  the bay, including our port side neighbor in his 52′ Sea Ray Sundancer.

 

Sea Ray Neigbors, Marigot Bay, St. Lucia

Sea Ray Neigbors, Marigot Bay, St. Lucia

We also shared the bay with our other boat neighbor, the 231′ Mega Yacht Talisman reminding us that  “there is always a bigger boat!”

M/V Talisman, Cruising Past Our Bow, Marigot Bay, St. Lucia

M/V Talisman, Cruising Past Our Bow, Marigot Bay, St. Lucia

Our plan is to continue exploring all that St. Lucia has to offer. Our next stop will take us further north to Rodney Bay and will be posting additional updates from there as time allows.

Typical St. Lucia

Typical St. Lucia

Approaching St. Lucia Piton anchorage

Dominica, Martinique & St Lucia – by Randy

DOMINICA

Ryan supervising refueling at Riveiera Sens, Guadeloupe

Ryan supervising refueling at Riveiera Sens, Guadeloupe

After departing Guadeloupe, we proceeded south to the island nation of Dominica. With under two weeks to go before our insurance induced requirement to be in Grenada, we are not getting to spend as much time as we would like in each of these enchanted islands. We will spend more time exploring on our return trip north after hurricane season. With that said, we did get to spend a wonderful evening anchored in Prince Rupert Bay on the northwest coast of Dominica. There is a professional organization in the town of Portsmouth known as PAYS (Portsmouth Association for Yacht Security) that provides everything from taxi and laundry services to divers, guides and nighttime anchorage security for visiting yachts. The night that we arrived we were greeted by several PAYS boat boys who invited us to a beachfront barbeque for visiting boats. There were probably fifty yachts at anchor in the harbor. Dominica is a large volcanic island with rivers, mountains and rainforests and we really look forward to exploring it more completely in the future but for now, one night was all we had and at daybreak we were underway to our next country of Martinique.

MARTINIQUE

Fort de France, Martinique

Fort de France, Martinique

Our stop in Martinique took place in the captial city of Ft. de France. Ft de France is probably the most cosmopolitan city in the Caribbean, with elements of both ancient and modern architecture. A beautiful waterfront city that is heavily geared towards the maritime industry. Martinique is a colony of France and as such it has a highly developed infrastucture complete with government built dinghy docks, excellent roads and parks and almost anything a visiting yacht could need within easy reach.

The afternoon that we arrived there were about 10 boats anchored in front of the town dock at the base of the 17th Century French Fort. We enjoyed dinner aboard and marvelled at the good fortune to have found such a picturesque and tranquil anchorage.

 

Fort de France, Martinique

Fort de France, Martinique

The next day our tranquility was abruptly interrupted when approximately 90 sailing catamarans arrived in our anchorage. It turns out that they were part of a trans Caribbean rally and they were all in a serious partying mode. Most of the sailors were well qualified and did a good job of securing their boats in the anchorage. That said, given the sheer number of boats, we still got to spend most of the afternoon fending off boats that were dragging their anchor or had just gotten too close to us and would swing into our anchoring arc creating a hazard for both themselves and the Pilot’s Discretion.

ST. LUCIA

Approaching St. Lucia Piton anchorage

Approaching St. Lucia Piton anchorage

Happily, it was time for us to move on and our next stop will surely go down as one of my favorites. We headed south for St Lucia with the intention of spending the night in the sheltered bay at Marigot. The weather was perfect for our passage to St. Lucia and when we were abeam Marigot Bay we elected to continue on to the Southern tip of St Lucia so that we could anchor in the shadow of the Pitons. The Pitons are two dramatic volcanic peaks that are some of the most photographed geographical features in the Caribbean. The bay in front of them has a half dozen mooring balls (anchoring is both prohibited by statute and operationally impractical). We picked up a mooring ball about 50 yards offshore in front of the 5 star resort known as the Jalousie Plantation. Given our close proximity to shore we could not believe the depth of the deep blue water. Our three independent depth sounders confirmed we were in 984′ of water.

The image of the Pilots’ Discretion moored in front of the Pitons was really one of those pinch me moments when we were all amazed by the amazing experience that is our journey.